easiest way to get around latin america is by bus. many of the long distance coaches are really comfortable (in chile and especially argentina) and cheap too… reclining seats that go almost horizontal, many serve food and wine at meal times and show films with headphones provided… some are a little crazier
in the poorer latin american countries you could well be sharing a wooden slat on a bus with 2 or 3 other people and all their worldly possessions, including livestock for 18 hours on terrifying mountain roads
it’s a good idea to have a bit of understanding… many of the passengers you will be sharing with may have been saving up for months or even years for the journey that costs £5… people aren’t usually resentful that you can so easily afford this kind of trip if you make some effort to fit in (by not whinging)
i found it incredibly easy to find places to stay without any planning… the best places were the least ‘professional’.. many areas are getting geared up for european tourists and have full-time touts at all the bus terminals… you can also usually find a regular person who has a spare room in the family house and is far less pushy, but will welcome you like you’re part of their family… sniff them out. you get an insight into how people live AND get to avoid the whole backpacker banter that gets so repetitive in hostels all over the world
even in remote places where there was no pensions people from all over the pueblo would find blankets and a floor, some food and beer, make a party… sometimes I would be the centre of a whole curious villages attention for the night with a party thrown in my honour… magic
chile is outrageously hospitable and chileans LOVE the english for all kinds of historic and cultural reasons.
argentinas’ economy bottomed out badly a few years ago and they are struggling to get back to the standard of living they had (comparable to western europe). the people are still very hospitable and are glad of a little tourist money too… enjoy the best, biggest steak and wine in the world for about £4
crossing borders is variable. if you go to chile, make sure you keep the little yellow slip they give you or you have to pay $100 to leave. Bolivian and Peruvian borders can take all day while bribes are collected, but westerners are generally left alone as they don’t want to spoil the tourist trade. Argentinian border guards are all massive military types with ironed creases and metal stars all over their uniforms, but once they’ve done their duty, they love a bit of football banter
make sure you learn some castellano before you travel to get the most out of this
if there’s particular stuff you’re going for (natural wonders, ancient history, city life etc) let me know and i’ll see if i can remember some locations
oh, and whatever you do, DON’T take a guide book. they are all shit.. there is far better information available from tourist information offices, people you stay with, meet on the street etc
